Wednesday, October 26, 2011

One week later...

I'm starting to realise that it's not the horse-riding that's the main appeal...but the magnificent landscapes and scenery. 



We came from the small shadowed mountain in the background just left of centre.
Only one dog escort this week!




Didn't think I'd be writing about my horse riding adventures so soon but I really wanted to share my latest photos captured on my tiny digital camera.  It was exciting to witness such a rapid transformation in the landscape. What a difference a week makes!   

The temperature was minus 3 when we headed out.  Some of the horses had icicles attached to their coat (they'd obviously traversed the river that morning).  The river although still flowing briskly is now starting to freeze over on the riverbanks and shallower areas.  It was a joy to witness how adept my horse was at breaking the ice with his hoof on the rivers edge to enjoy an obviously freezing cold drink!  (no pictures of that as I was more concerned about staying dry!).

The plains were lightly cloaked with snow. It was very cold.  It's going to be a bigger challenge in the coming weeks to stay warm.

High up on the ridge-time to rest the horses and take in the majestic views

Snow capped mountains glisten in the sunlight. Its getting much warmer by now. You can barely see the Tuul river from this distance.

Zooming in on the Tuul river.  The waters are an amazing contrast to the browning countryside. 



It's hard to descibe how vast, exquisite and tranquil it is out in the open spaces.



Tember, our guide, models his monocular used for keeping track of stock and finding routes from very long distances.



Once you turn to go home, you don't need to know the way...the animals know exactly where home is.  (Quite often this would also lead to a spontaneous, undirected gallop!!)
It's moments like those you need a Minty!!! :D




Wednesday, October 19, 2011

25km horse trek

Terelj National Park


First things first- catch the horses!!! 

There doesn't seem to be an end to the list of extraordinary experiences you can have here in Mongolia.  For me, it's one of the many anomalies of life here- you expect so little yet you receive so much.  It's difficult to understand why expectation is so low when you are continually being amazed by the people, the land, the culture and the pervading history.  

Yesterday I rode 25km's through the most spectacular countryside I have ever had the pleasure of traversing. Accompanied by 15 friends, 4 herders, 3 dogs (one lame!) and 3 support cars (much needed for carrying tired riders, excess warm clothing that was discarded along the way, refreshments and a picnic lunch) we headed for the finish line, Turtle Rock. 

This incredible journey was made possible by Julie Veloo,  a fellow denizen who has taken the "Mongolian experience" to another level by purchasing a ger and moving in (part-time) to a country-side neighbourhood!!   With that move came all the pleasures and rewards of being able to experience the day to day life of a Mongolian family, not only learning their customs and traditions but also receiving their generous hospitality.  Part of Julie's initiative to mutually enhance the experience for all concerned has been to introduce a weekly riding group which I feel very priviledged to be part of.



So...before you can go on a ride you have to catch the horses!  You wouldn't think that would be too hard a task with tamed horses. Not so. These horses still love to be wild and free so catching them requires skill, agility, speed and an "uurga" (a pole lasso used to catch horses and other livestock- about 4-5 metres in length with a leather loop on one end).  That's "my" horse second from the right in the foreground.  She's taken me many miles in an orderly fashion despite my lack of riding skills!  


The job's made a little easier when you corner yourself on a rocky hill



Desperate dash...


...all for naught!
Once you've caught your horse then someone comes to attach the bridle and....
...leaves you at the "loading dock" ready to be saddled up.
Julie's neighbourhood- That's her ger on the left.

the view (from the "long drop")

On our way!...

The first river crossing.  The second was not so kind!  My horse ended up half submerged and although I was able to keep mainly dry, water quickly seeped into my boots. Fortunately the situation rectified itself after an hour or so and my socks were completely dry by the end of the day! 
Expansive plains with yaks, horses, marmots, sheep and goats interspersed along the way. Oh! and a few stray dogs.




First pitsop.  Julie on the left, Baggi and our guides who patiently attended to all our equestrial needs. 

There was plenty of room to ride "alone" and take in the length and breadth of the surrounding beauty.

SPACE

amazing rock formations

An "owoo": these places of worship are scattered all over Mongolia

Highest point of the trek


Our excellent guides

Captivating. Serene. Awe-inspiring
The scenery was ever changing



Our destination Turtle Rock, in the distance

Turtle Rock
After a 4 hour journey we arrived late into the afternoon. We all enjoyed a picnic "lunch" and a well earned rest before the herders ushered the horses back home (at least a 2 hour trip!) Ulaanbaatar is around an hour and 15 minutes drive.

Homeward bound.....


Oh! and just before you go, there's one more picture I'd like to share of me picking up my hat at full gallop!


Just Kidding!!

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Bayan-Ölgii...where eagles fly



2 1/2 hours flight from the capital *Ulaanbatar 
Last weekend we flew to Bayan-Ölgii, the home of Mongolia's Kazakh falconers and the Golden Eagle Festival. This rugged and isolated province lies in the shadow of the Golden Altai mountain range where Russia, China, Mongolia and Kazakhstan come together. This is our second encounter with the Kazakh hunters but it was a great thrill to be able to witness this spectacular event up close and personal in their own "backyard"...a once in a lifetime experience.

Embroidered Kazakh wall hangings are a feature in most gers. Completely hand stitched, the base of the panel is always left unfinished-being of Muslim faith the Kazakhs believe only God creates perfect, complete things.  This piece is now mine!  It was made in 1959 so I had to have it!


It is so easy to see why Mongolians have such a deep connection with their land, beauty abounds whatever the season. Hope these pictures will give you some sense of the surrounding landscape.
A Kazakh hunter in quiet contemplation.
The ground is so rock-bound you cant even imagine that its suitable for horses let alone navigating them at a full gallop across the terrain.

A view of the craggy hillside closer up.  Looking for a little solitude... 
In contrast, an interesting rock formation and wide open plains
...better than a living room any day!
Walking to our  picnic lunch "in the middle of nowhere"
The Stage: It's hard to look like a crowd in such wide open spaces.  But there definitely was a crowd! (refer unpublished pictures!)

 THE EAGLE HUNTERS IN ALL THEIR SPLENDOR






























Sim with the younger hunters

In action. Hunters show their skills by retrieving items from the ground in a full gallop. 

Looks like fun-must try it on my horse riding expedition next week!







Natural refrigeration at its best!


Room with a view-idyllic lunch spot by the river


Not long after first course.....visitors arrived!
clear, alpine rivers for a spot of  fishing

Kitted up fishermen!
a great place for just... contemplating


The people we met along the way...
This is one of my favourite pics.  These women were heading home with dung in their sacks.
The Mongolian Eagle hunters of the future!

The best groomed camel I have seen so far!
Don't you love those cheeks!

I watched this old lady walk a very long way from across the plain
This little boy urged me to take his picture holding the eagle.  He struggled with the weight of it! 


Last but not least, some Soviet motor nostalgia!
Our aesthetically challenged people mover.  "Fergie". Our driver seemed to believe it could fly if he pressed her hard enough.  Short on comfort high on gasoline fumes!
Only the uninitiated would ask "why is it padded?"
someones "Russian Beauty"
Strong and hardy for sure