Wrestle Mania!

The scene of the action. Wrestling Palace in the heart of UB.

More than a month ago when I got home from my first encounter with Mongolian Wrestling, I was definitely full of enthusiasm and eager to share the experience. At the time I was looking for a new blog entry and there I found an assemblage of half-naked fellows in long boots and briefs, flinging each other around the arena in between a prolonged embrace or two.  My search was over!! 

For more than 4 hours, I was truly captivated by the peculiar rituals and rules. I was fascinated by the assortment of stocky, somewhat flabby, macho men who pranced ethereally across their stage imitating the flight of an eagle. There was also a lot of thigh and butt slapping!! (by bodies that would be better appreciated clothed than naked).

I spent most of the time behind the camera lens but am disappointed that I was unable to capture the true essence of this major sporting event in the Mongolian calendar.  Some things are better experienced in person!

The VIP box at just $7 a ticket was not a bad deal.  The trick is, just walk in looking like you belong.  You may need to give up your front row seat for a General or parliamentarian halfway through, but still a good deal.  You will also have to be willing to be flashed on the national television broadcast from time to time, both OK with me!  This picture was taken by a friend who spotted us from across the stadium with her super zoom lens (from the cheap seats!)

Inside the Ger shaped stadium

Most seats have a great vantage point

Sim, Colin and Daniel

The crowd is predominantly male.  (Sim's company's banner in the background)

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Costumes...

The Jodag is a tight fitting, collarless, blue or red sleeved top with ties wrapping around the front. According to legend, one competitor, having won the competition , ripped open their jodag to reveal breasts showing that they were a woman. From that time on a wrestlers chest has to be exposed.

Shuudag are tight fitting briefs to prevent the opponent from being able grab their opponent easily.  

The Gutal are traditional leather boots with upturned toes.

 

A beginner's viewpoint....

A wrestling event can go for a very long time. There are no weight or size divisions.  512 wrestlers begin in round 1, then 256, 128, 64, 32, 16, 8, 4, 2 and then finally the winner remains. After each win the defeated walks under the right armpit of the victor.  The victor then yields his head to accept a winning cap from the "umpire".  Once he has the cap on his head he floats? prances? flies? over to a plinth containing the Mongolian flag where he proceeds to show his respect to the wrestling totems by imitating the movements of an eagle or other totem.  Before moving on they give both sides of their thighs a slap. ( I'm still yet to find out the purpose of this).  In the final rounds, the winners grab handfuls of dough balls wrapped in green foil and throw them to the appreciative crowd. These are highly sought after.  I did have the opportunity to try one. (Similar to a plain piece of doughy bread).  It must have some other symbolic significance given the way the spectators fought to get some.

"Eagle dancing"

...more "eagles"

Curiously, there are no weight classes!!

Wrestlers can be in an embrace for quite a prolonged time

Sometimes a respite is required when there is an injury or clothing needs readjustment. The umpires in the red and blue deels, will be there to help wrestlers regain the advantage they had by repositioning wrestlers in the exact embrace they left off with.  This can take quite a while as every finger and grip is as exactly as it was before the mini break.  From the time and care taken, it's obvious that near enough is certainly not good enough!

Check it out on video...