The PHANTASMAGORICAL colours of Autumn!

A traditional Mongolian proverb says:

 "When Naadam ends, autumn begins."

Well, we've just had our own mini Naadam celebrating the one year anniversary of our horse riding club so I guess this proverb rings true! Not many things can be as spectacular as a Mongolian autumn. It caught me by surprise as it seemed a day earlier the landscape was fairly green. Or was it that I was having too much fun to notice? I took these pictures last week while visiting the countryside with my friends. The colours were so vibrant and rich that as the sun shone down it seemed it was trying to draw attention to the last blasts of colour the steppes will see for a very long time . There were vivid golds and yellows mixed with russet earthy tones and sometimes  splashes of pink.  Sadly, it wont be long before it all gives way to Mongolia's favourite/predominant colour, white!

Vivid gold trees- a contrast to the fading grasslands 

Interesting fence holding back the vegetation :D

  Azure skies provide a stunning background to the granite hills and the russet and orange shrubs dotted around add interest to the yellowing grass.
Note the tablets: I mentioned these in the previous blog (they line the path as you walk up to the Buddhist monastery).

You can see more of the Buddhist tablets.
Love the dotted colors all over.

Haven't featured a fence in a while

A man rests in the sun. His bull was saddled. I 'd have loved to see him riding it.

This was taken from the car-a stunning palette of autumnal 
colours.

Turtle Rock given a face lift by the surrounding landscape.
Almost looks like the foreground was photoshopped into a black & white pic!

I'm going to miss you Autumn xx

Two Day Horse Trek: Day 1

I have just spent two unforgettable, exciting days exploring the Mongolian countryside. Venturing far off the beaten track, we climbed up through high wooded mountain passes, down through river valleys and traversed fast flowing waters  and camped the night (on a steep slope!) in what I believe to be some of the most beautiful, unspoiled countryside in the world. The scenery was spectacular and ever changeing and although the ride on day 2 challenged my limited riding skills, I can now honestly attest to being capable of riding anywhere that may require the sure-footedness of a mountain goat!
I never imagined riding would be such an enriching experience -it has certainly given me a wonderful perspective and understanding of what makes Mongolia such a special place and just why its culture and history is so tightly linked to the horse.

Here are some of my favourite scenes/memories...

One of many challenges: Stay dry-Fail.
Not long into the trek Baggi, our unflappable and fearless guide for the trip, tests the waters and guides our back-up horse across the river before coming back to get us (hopefully with a better idea of the shallowest route!). 

...while we contemplate getting wet!

Just to get some perspective on how wide the river was due to heavy rains a few days before.
 As Baggie's silhouette gets smaller, I begin to wonder if the horses are still in fact walking or swimming!

To cover most contingencies, I travelled with  a guide, 3 friends, a spare horse and a support vehicle (which carried our food, camping gear and liquid "refreshments").  The car was supposed to accompany us on the first day provided it made it across the river. Unfortunately the Land Cruiser proved not as robust as our sturdy horses!!  
Didn't quite pull out the camera in time to catch the car being set adrift but you'll get a good idea of just how fast flowing the river was (and  how lucky it wasn't all over before it had even began!)

The water is drained from the car and at which point Julie decides it's prudent to make the crossing in a state of "undress".  I followed suit and went barefoot! The Toyota took to the road and met us at Turtle Rock.

Sue being suited up with a back-pack, Mongolian style.
Thanks for carrying my boots! :D

Barely able to keep my feet above the water (me in front) but I'm not sure why I bothered,
I still got pretty wet.

Further on, grassy green meadows -perfect for a long gallop.

Aaawwww!
This pic is a snapshot of the valley the International Equestrian Club of Outer Mongolia (IECOOM)
resides in... the first cluster of gers beside the river at the base of the hill is our home/club house.
Beautiful right?! We get to come here most weeks.( Approximately an hour and a half out of town)

Girls pull in for refreshments after a long gallop

Turtle Rock

Beautiful granite rock formations

This downslope was our campsite for the night. 
Trying to sleep on this was like trying to stay put on the deck of the Titanic-impossible! 
I'm still clueless as to why this place was chosen as our campsite.

My friends: Sue, Julie and Robyn. 
Challenge 2: Get a good nights sleep.  Fail!

Trying to gather enough wood before dark.  
The wood was extremely dry so nothing a good foot stomp couldn't chop!

View from our patch- a scree fall

A quaint buddhist monastery nestled into a granite hill. We visited the next morning. 200 plus steps, each with words of wisdom written on a plaque-some food for thought while ascending (and descending).

In the early morning Baggi returns with the overnight absconders!
Although fettered for the night the horses still managed to go AWOL!!
Just another reminder that they are still wild horses and when not being ridden they are free to roam.

Stay tuned for Day 2 now that the horses have been caught! :D we'll be leaving the steppes and taking the short cut home, OVER the hills.

25km horse trek

Terelj National Park

First things first- catch the horses!!! 

There doesn't seem to be an end to the list of extraordinary experiences you can have here in Mongolia.  For me, it's one of the many anomalies of life here- you expect so little yet you receive so much.  It's difficult to understand why expectation is so low when you are continually being amazed by the people, the land, the culture and the pervading history.  

Yesterday I rode 25km's through the most spectacular countryside I have ever had the pleasure of traversing. Accompanied by 15 friends, 4 herders, 3 dogs (one lame!) and 3 support cars (much needed for carrying tired riders, excess warm clothing that was discarded along the way, refreshments and a picnic lunch) we headed for the finish line, Turtle Rock. 

This incredible journey was made possible by Julie Veloo,  a fellow denizen who has taken the "Mongolian experience" to another level by purchasing a ger and moving in (part-time) to a country-side neighbourhood!!   With that move came all the pleasures and rewards of being able to experience the day to day life of a Mongolian family, not only learning their customs and traditions but also receiving their generous hospitality.  Part of Julie's initiative to mutually enhance the experience for all concerned has been to introduce a weekly riding group which I feel very priviledged to be part of.

So...before you can go on a ride you have to catch the horses!  You wouldn't think that would be too hard a task with tamed horses. Not so. These horses still love to be wild and free so catching them requires skill, agility, speed and an "uurga" (a pole lasso used to catch horses and other livestock- about 4-5 metres in length with a leather loop on one end).  That's "my" horse second from the right in the foreground.  She's taken me many miles in an orderly fashion despite my lack of riding skills!  

The job's made a little easier when you corner yourself on a rocky hill

Desperate dash...

...all for naught!

Once you've caught your horse then someone comes to attach the bridle and....

...leaves you at the "loading dock" ready to be saddled up.
Julie's neighbourhood- That's her ger on the left.

the view (from the "long drop")

On our way!...

The first river crossing.  The second was not so kind!  My horse ended up half submerged and although I was able to keep mainly dry, water quickly seeped into my boots. Fortunately the situation rectified itself after an hour or so and my socks were completely dry by the end of the day! 

Expansive plains with yaks, horses, marmots, sheep and goats interspersed along the way. Oh! and a few stray dogs.

First pitsop.  Julie on the left, Baggi and our guides who patiently attended to all our equestrial needs. 

There was plenty of room to ride "alone" and take in the length and breadth of the surrounding beauty.

SPACE

amazing rock formations

An "owoo": these places of worship are scattered all over Mongolia

Highest point of the trek

Our excellent guides

Captivating. Serene. Awe-inspiring

The scenery was ever changing

Our destination Turtle Rock, in the distance

Turtle Rock

After a 4 hour journey we arrived late into the afternoon. We all enjoyed a picnic "lunch" and a well earned rest before the herders ushered the horses back home (at least a 2 hour trip!) Ulaanbaatar is around an hour and 15 minutes drive.

Homeward bound.....


Oh! and just before you go, there's one more picture I'd like to share of me picking up my hat at full gallop!

Just Kidding!!