Let's talk about the weather...

Lowest temperature captured on my iphone Jan 27th

According to the locals, this winter has been exceptionally cold. No kidding!  As it is only the second winter I have endured in Mongolia, it is difficult to gauge if it was any colder than my first.  In fact it might be because I'm not sure when one ended and the other began!!  Anyway, as far as I can tell, once temperatures plunge below minus 20 it's stupendously cold and what you need to do to stay warm and survive is much the same as at minus 40.  Whatever the temperature, living in the coldest capital of the world hasn't been too much of a challenge...providing you have access to all the modern conveniences :)


Although winter's here are intense they are definitely not bleak.  The sun seems to be forever shining and the sky more often than not is a vivid blue -unfortunately UB is located in a basin surrounded by mountains which prevents smog from dissipating, so you may need to step out of the smog-filled capital to notice!  The air is extremely dry (a bonus for those of us that have to dry our clothes indoors without a dryer) but it also means it is very unforgiving on the body, it's very dehydrating, lips crack easily, and skin becomes dry and flaky with or without attention.  Dressing is also tricky. The questions being, do you rug up for the cold and suffer abominably in overheated restaurants and shops or do you brave a measure of cold to survive your indoor destination. After suffering more than a few distressing episodes of spontaneous combustion in my double layer of thermals, these days I'm happy to take the risk and wear none!


One of the many pitfalls of extreme cold temperatures is slippery roads and pavements. Although there is not a lot of snow, what does fall becomes icy and slick and becomes even more slippery once compacted by use.  According to data released by the National Trauma and Orthopaedic Research Centre between 180 and 200 people are injured each day! due to falls on icy streets with many people becoming seriously disabled because of their injuries.  Unfortunately, I've seen quite a few people with missing fingers due to frostbite (commonly caused by excessive alcohol consumption and then falling asleep outside).


Despite the extreme temperatures our discomfits are actually quite minor. You don't have to look too far to see how it is for others.  Some freezing cold mornings after a snowfall, I wake to see our ger-dwelling neighbours below making adjustments and sweeping snow from the roof of their ger. This is mainly a job for the women and children as they are much lighter and won't damage the struts as easily.

Roof sweeping. The rectangle structure in the foreground is a sea container connected to the ger in which a family with 5 children and 4 adults live (plus at least 1 dog and 4 puppies!)

Early morning adjustments

...for many of the population in the city there is limited sanitation, little electricity and water can only be accessed by carting it. Hard enough in the summer months but in winter....I can't begin to imagine.

It does surprise me though how quickly we learn to adapt to our surroundings. I look back on the photos of us in our first few months where I was rugged up against the elements with barely my eyes showing and I remember still  being cold and that wasn't even taken in the coldest months of December and January!
Now we would consider some of those warmer winter days almost balmy where hats and gloves are not an absolute necessity unless outdoors for extended periods and like I mentioned previously, the thermals stay in the cupboard!


So for those of you who are constantly expressing your amazement of the extreme weather conditions in which we live and wonder how on earth do we cope, I can honestly say, "very well, thanks!"


Lastly, checkout this video of one of the perks of winter transport in Mongolia-using the frozen rivers as highways and byways to make great progress against the horrendous traffic congestion within the city. We use the frozen river on a weekly basis to get quick access to the countryside. It does add a little excitement to the trip!

SEASON'S GREETINGS!

Technically, Christmas is not celebrated in Mongolia.  Two separate festivities have been compounded into one holiday -The New Year.  All the same, all over Ulaanbaatar, streets and shops are bedecked with all manner of Christmas decorations, lights and Christmas trees.  We are left in no doubt that the festive season is upon us!

Even in Sukhbaatar Square there is a giant Christmas tree which at night is adorned with a brightly lit red star ★  (looks  much like  a homage to Russia, or a remnant from a Pre-Independence box of Russian Christmas treasures!!!).

We've lived in Mongolia for almost a year now and all I can say is that it has been the most incredible experience... where every day is an adventure and where expecting the unexpected is a state of being.

So with that, I thank you all for following my blog and for all your  positive emails/comments over the past year.  I welcome your  input.

Wishing you all  the very best over the holiday Season and a Happy New Year!

I look forward to sharing more of my Mongolian adventures with you in 2012.

Road trip to ERDENET

49° 1′ 40″ N, 104° 2′ 40″ E

The road to Erdenet...

This is about as good as the roads get in winter-a mostly single lane of treacherous, lumpy, bumpy bitumen.

Erdenet, Mongolia's second largest city, is 6 hours drive north-west from the capital, Ulaanbaatar.  

It has the fourth largest copper mine in the world and is a significant town in that it accounts for nearly fifteen percent of Mongolia's GDP.

Last weekend a large group of Oyu Tolgoi employees went to Erdenet to celebrate "500 Days" since  the inception of their Mining Education and Vocational training programs and facilities for the youth of Mongolia.  It was a chance for many to renew old friendships that were forged in the process and celebrate the progress of the program.   

As usual by Mongolian standards, we were given a very special welcome. 

There were ribbons to be cut...

facilities to be inspected and new training equipment to try out...
(such as back hoe and crane simulators)

After all the formalities we were treated to a short concert of traditional performers. I would really recommend you take a minute to listen to the distinctive acoustics of a

Mongolian throat singer. Fascinating! 

Traditional singer

Many dance moves emulate riding a horse...
very rhythmic and beautiful

Of course, there is always the obligatory bowl of airag to share after the formalities...

There was also just enough time to visit Erdenet Carpets- Mongolia's leading carpet manufacturer and one of the ten largest companies in the country. Definitely worth a visit!

Although this is not me ... I followed suit and left with my own souvenir carpet!

There were many celebrations and speeches and vodka toasts that night  but I'm just posting this special picture taken at a local night club after formal celebrations were long finished.

And here are some scenes you can expect to see on a 6 hour road trip from Erdenet to the capital...

Snow covered plains with golden grass and low lying mountains on the horizon

Beautiful earthy tones

unfortunately that's smoke pollution making its way across the skies :(

Pit stop. (approx -25C)  

Another Erdenet purchase-a Mets jacket!  Who would have thought!!

The harmony of colours are just beautiful to look at.

...and then literally in the middle of nowhere....

...the dry and smoked fish sellers

...hawk their wares
Fish is from the Orkhon river, the longest river in Mongolia (which we had just crossed) Of course it's frozen solid right now. Locals still fish by drilling into the ice.
 Pike, Carp, Taimen, Perch and Catfish can be found there.

...And every now and then as you approach a populated area, heavenly blue pristine skies are being assaulted as coal stacks belch thick clouds of black soot into the air.
(Coal is still the main source of heat and energy in Mongolia)