Wrestle Mania!

The scene of the action. Wrestling Palace in the heart of UB.

More than a month ago when I got home from my first encounter with Mongolian Wrestling, I was definitely full of enthusiasm and eager to share the experience. At the time I was looking for a new blog entry and there I found an assemblage of half-naked fellows in long boots and briefs, flinging each other around the arena in between a prolonged embrace or two.  My search was over!! 

For more than 4 hours, I was truly captivated by the peculiar rituals and rules. I was fascinated by the assortment of stocky, somewhat flabby, macho men who pranced ethereally across their stage imitating the flight of an eagle. There was also a lot of thigh and butt slapping!! (by bodies that would be better appreciated clothed than naked).

I spent most of the time behind the camera lens but am disappointed that I was unable to capture the true essence of this major sporting event in the Mongolian calendar.  Some things are better experienced in person!

The VIP box at just $7 a ticket was not a bad deal.  The trick is, just walk in looking like you belong.  You may need to give up your front row seat for a General or parliamentarian halfway through, but still a good deal.  You will also have to be willing to be flashed on the national television broadcast from time to time, both OK with me!  This picture was taken by a friend who spotted us from across the stadium with her super zoom lens (from the cheap seats!)

Inside the Ger shaped stadium

Most seats have a great vantage point

Sim, Colin and Daniel

The crowd is predominantly male.  (Sim's company's banner in the background)

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Costumes...

The Jodag is a tight fitting, collarless, blue or red sleeved top with ties wrapping around the front. According to legend, one competitor, having won the competition , ripped open their jodag to reveal breasts showing that they were a woman. From that time on a wrestlers chest has to be exposed.

Shuudag are tight fitting briefs to prevent the opponent from being able grab their opponent easily.  

The Gutal are traditional leather boots with upturned toes.

 

A beginner's viewpoint....

A wrestling event can go for a very long time. There are no weight or size divisions.  512 wrestlers begin in round 1, then 256, 128, 64, 32, 16, 8, 4, 2 and then finally the winner remains. After each win the defeated walks under the right armpit of the victor.  The victor then yields his head to accept a winning cap from the "umpire".  Once he has the cap on his head he floats? prances? flies? over to a plinth containing the Mongolian flag where he proceeds to show his respect to the wrestling totems by imitating the movements of an eagle or other totem.  Before moving on they give both sides of their thighs a slap. ( I'm still yet to find out the purpose of this).  In the final rounds, the winners grab handfuls of dough balls wrapped in green foil and throw them to the appreciative crowd. These are highly sought after.  I did have the opportunity to try one. (Similar to a plain piece of doughy bread).  It must have some other symbolic significance given the way the spectators fought to get some.

"Eagle dancing"

...more "eagles"

Curiously, there are no weight classes!!

Wrestlers can be in an embrace for quite a prolonged time

Sometimes a respite is required when there is an injury or clothing needs readjustment. The umpires in the red and blue deels, will be there to help wrestlers regain the advantage they had by repositioning wrestlers in the exact embrace they left off with.  This can take quite a while as every finger and grip is as exactly as it was before the mini break.  From the time and care taken, it's obvious that near enough is certainly not good enough!

Check it out on video...

Notre Dame Orphanage revisted

Not too far from the city centre, across an inconspicuous bumpy dirt road, stretch the humble gates of Fraternite Notre Dame, the home of 25 Mongolian orphans.  (There are more than 40 such orphanages in Mongolia).  Much has happened since we were last there but I am happy to report that despite Sister Marie Francoises' sudden departure after 7 years of service at the orphanage, that the children have adapted well and have been doubly blessed by two replacement Sisters who seem to be cut from the same extraordinary mould as Sister Marie Francoise.

The surrounding neighbourhood as seen from the window

Girls dorm below. Recreation room above.

The purpose of our visit  was to deliver a new organ donated by a Catholic parish in Brisbane who responded in kind when hearing about the needs of the children. 

After the nights festivities, it's easy to see how much ongoing joy this donation will bring to the daily life of the orphanage.

We brought with us food, drinks, party hats, poppers and friends. After sharing a delicious meal we were treated to a medley of songs in English, Mongolian and French! 

The national anthem is sung with such reverence!

...so angelic

Ole And Colin

All the children signed a Thankyou.

"The Choir"

Julie Veloo and Sister

Introducing Khushuur...

a very popular  Mongolia snack food, similar to a fried meat pie.  It's made from a simple mix of beef or mutton, flour and onion.  Looks much like a pastie.

Moi!

No one started until all food was dished out, drinks poured and prayers were said... such impeccable manners :D

Cutie!

Robyn

Scrummy!

And last but not least, a special guest, The Most Reverend Bishop Jean Marie .  When we arrived he (aka the picture!) was downstairs in the main building.  Somebody cared enough to bring him up stairs to join in the celebrations!

The Bishop founded the Fraternite Notre Dame religious congregation in 1971 and now operates humanitarian missions on four continents.

Night out at the OPERA

This pink Romanesque building was built by the Russians in 1932.  It's centrally located on the east side of Sukhbaatar Square and is fondly referred to as the Ulaanbaatar Opera House and is the domicile of the National Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet of Mongolia.  

By all accounts it hosts the most prolific schedule of ballet, opera and theatre performances in the world!  Well maybe not,  but I think you'd be hard pressed to find a more fecund theatre group!!  You could attend twice a week for a month and never see a repeat show!!!

We have seen two productions this week, Carmen and an Anthology of Classical Musicals such as Phantom of the Opera, Romeo and Juliet, Cats, Don Juan and Chicago. I am staggered that such multifarious productions can run for 2 nights only, (sometimes even one as in the case of Carmen!!).

"CARMEN"

Backstage 

CATS

Right next door  to the Opera house is the Central Tower building which locals call the Shangri La as it was originally built to house the Shangri La Hotel. However there's no  hotel, only offices and a shopping mall with luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Burberry and Zegna. Its glass walls and clean lines are in sharp contrast to the  Opera house which clearly belongs to another time! 

There is a bar and restaurant on the 17th floor which offers great views of the city and surrounding hills.  On the 3rd floor they have a pub called the Square Grill which we like to frequent for late-night drinks.  It has a lovely view of Sukhbaatar Square.

Taken from the 17th floor